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Lhakpa Ri Expedition

Mt. Cho-Oyu ExpeditionLhakpa Ri Mountain (7,045m./23,000ft.) is the newly becoming famous expedition in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. Lhakpa Ri is an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world. The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk an Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri . It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals.

George Mallory was in fact the first person ever to set foot on the Lhakpa Ri mountain when he climbed to the nearby Lhakpa La from the eastern side during the first Everest reconnaissance of 1921. The first ascent of the Lhakpa Ri had to wait another fifteen years and was climbed by the indomitable Bill Tilman during the Everest reconnaissance of 1936. The second ascent was made in 1988 by the French Everest summiter Michelle Pelle.

On the summit day you will be required to walk up a snow slope wearing crampons and using a ice axe but during the trip from base camp to Lhakpa Ri we will have had plenty of opportunities to practice basic snow and ice travel and those who wish to acquire the techniques for correct glacier travel will do so. The last 30m/100ft to the true summit is quite
exposed but very easy. It will safeguarded by fixed rope. You will be clipped into the rope so even if your have a vaso bagal attack or your first grand mall seizure at such an inopportune moment you cannot fall.

The summit view from Lhakpa Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual vies of some of the world's best known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains. Amongst the highlights are the Nyonno Ri range in eastern Tibet, the north face of Chomolonzo and the north faces of Makalu and Pethangtse. Also
the beautiful and little known peak of Shartse and the frightening Kangshung (east) face of Everest and the east face of Lhotse.

There is an unrivalled view of the north east ridge of Everest, the North Col, Changtse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. You also have a chance to grasp the immensity of the Tibetan plateau as you can see hundreds of miles across the wildest of landscapes.

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Itinerary details for Lhakpa Ri Expedition
Day 1:

Meet at Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel

Day 2:

Sight-seeing of Kathmandu: Full day’s sightseeing in Kathmandu valley includes the Hindu temple complex at Pashupatinath (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) & the biggest Buddhist Stupa at Boudhanath. Also visit Monkey Temple the Swyambhunath (2000 years old temple) and visit Patan
city of fine arts. Return to the hotel.

Day 3: Preparation for Expedition & Briefing, Tibet visa procedure
Day 4: Drive to Kodari - Cross border & Zhangmu
Day 5: Zhangmu - Nyalam
Day 6: Nyalam - Tingri
Day 7: Acclimatization day in Tingri
Day 8: Tingri – Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 9: Acclimatization day in Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 10: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp to Middle Camp
Day 11:

Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp

Day 12-26: Advance Base Camp (ABC)
Day 27: Climbing Period and returned back to Advance Base Camp
Day 28: Base Camp to Shigatse
Day 29: Advance Base Camp to Everest Base Camp
Day 30 : Everest Base Camp to Shigatse
Day 31 :
Shigatse - Gyantse
Day 32 : Gyantse - Lhasa
Day 33:

Lhasa to Kathmandu flight & transfer to Hotel

Day 34: Kathmandu free day, evening culture show with Nepali dinner, hotel
Day 35: Final departure, transfer to airport.
 
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